Overview
Hair cutting is a foundational skill tested on the NY State Cosmetology Board Exam, covering technique, geometry, sectioning, tool usage, and safety. This guide breaks down all major concepts from cutting fundamentals to specialized applications. Mastery of angles, elevations, and guidelines is essential for both the written and practical portions of the exam.
---
Cutting Fundamentals
Elevation & Angles
Elevation is the angle at which hair is held away from the head before cutting, measured in degrees from 0° to 180°. It is one of the most tested concepts on the exam.
| Elevation | Result |
|---|---|
| 0° | One-length/blunt cut; maximum weight at perimeter |
| 1°–89° | Graduation; stacked, wedge effect with weight build-up |
| 90° | Uniform layer; weight distributed evenly throughout |
| Above 90° | Increased layering; removes weight from perimeter |
• Cutting angle (finger angle / cutting line): the angle at which fingers are held when cutting; determines shape and weight distribution
• Natural fall: the direction hair falls with no tension or elevation, based solely on natural growth patterns
Guidelines
• Guide (guideline): the first section cut; establishes length and direction for all subsequent sections
• Stationary guide: stays in one fixed position; all sections are brought to it (used in blunt cuts)
• Traveling guide: moves with each new section cut (used in layered cuts)
• Overdirection: combing hair away from natural fall toward a guide to intentionally create length increases or weight build-up
Key Terms
• Elevation
• Cutting angle / Finger angle
• Natural fall
• Stationary guide
• Traveling guide
• Overdirection
> Watch Out For: Students commonly confuse stationary vs. traveling guides. Remember: stationary = you bring the hair TO the guide; traveling = the guide MOVES with you through the haircut. Mixing these up will produce unintended weight distribution.
---
Cutting Techniques
Foundation Techniques
• Blunt cut (one-length cut): All hair cut to the same length at 0° elevation; creates a solid, heavy perimeter line with no layers
• Graduated cut: Elevations between 1°–89°; creates a stacked, wedge effect with weight concentrated along the perimeter (e.g., a classic "bob wedge")
• Uniform layer cut: Cut at 90° elevation throughout; weight distributed evenly, fully layered result
Texturizing Techniques
These techniques are used after the base cut to soften lines, remove bulk, or add movement:
| Technique | Description | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Point cutting | Shear tips directed into hair ends | Softens blunt lines, adds texture |
| Notching | Deep, wide V-shaped cuts into ends | Chunky, pronounced texture |
| Slicing | Open shears glide along surface/interior | Removes bulk, creates movement |
| Channel cutting | Parallel tunnels cut through hair | Significant bulk removal |
| Razor cutting | Razor glides along hair | Soft, feathered, tapered edges |
> Watch Out For: Razor cutting must be performed on wet hair — this is a common exam question. Dry hair makes razor cutting uncomfortable for the client and produces poor results.
Key Terms
• Blunt / one-length cut
• Graduation
• Uniform layer
• Point cutting / tip cutting
• Notching
• Slicing
• Channel cutting
• Razor cutting
> Watch Out For: Know the difference between notching and point cutting. Both work at the ends, but notching creates deep, wide cuts for chunky texture, while point cutting uses the shear tips for a softer, more subtle texture.
---
Sectioning & Head Form
Key Reference Points on the Head
• Apex: The highest point on top of the head; used as a reference for sectioning and distributing hair in layered or uniform cuts
• Occipital bone: The protruding bone at the back of the skull; a critical landmark for weight distribution, graduation, and nape tapering
• Horseshoe section: Separates the top/crown area from the sides and back; used when cutting layers on top or creating a disconnected interior
Standard Sectioning
The head is divided into four main sections for a basic haircut:
• Two front sections (left and right of center part)
• Two back sections (left and right of center back)
• Separated by a center part and an ear-to-ear parting
Key Terms
• Apex
• Occipital bone
• Horseshoe section
• Natural fall
• Four-section parting
> Watch Out For: The occipital bone is frequently referenced in graduation and nape tapering questions. Know that weight tends to accumulate at or above the occipital bone in graduated cuts.
---
Tools & Safety
Shears & Implements
• Thinning shears (texturizing shears): One or both blades have teeth; allows some strands to pass through uncut while others are cut — used to thin and texturize without creating a blunt line
• Clippers: Used for tapers, fades, and close-cropped cuts; require disinfection between every client using an EPA-registered hospital-level disinfectant (NY State requirement)
• Razor: Used for soft, feathered results on wet hair
Safety & Sanitation Standards (NY State)
• Passing shears: Always pass handle-first with blades closed so the receiver can grasp handles safely
• Clipper disinfection: Clipper blades must be cleaned and disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-level disinfectant between every client
• Draping procedure: Apply the neck strip first, then the cutting drape/cape — the neck strip must sit between the cape and the client's skin to prevent direct contact
Proper Cutting Tension
• Apply even, consistent tension — firm enough to hold hair but not enough to stretch it
• Uneven tension = uneven cut: when stretched hair springs back, the length will be inconsistent
Key Terms
• Thinning shears / texturizing shears
• EPA-registered hospital-level disinfectant
• Neck strip
• Cutting tension
> Watch Out For: The NY State Board is very specific about sanitation of clippers. The answer is always an EPA-registered hospital-level disinfectant — not just soap and water or alcohol alone. Also remember: neck strip goes on BEFORE the cape.
---
Hair Cutting Applications
Specialized Cuts
• Taper / Fade: Gradually reduces length from longer hair on top to very short or skin-close at sides and nape using clippers and blending; associated with men's cuts
• Undercut: Interior/underneath sections are cut shorter than the exterior; creates a disconnected, non-blended effect
• Asymmetrical cut: Two sides intentionally cut to different lengths; creates an unbalanced, non-mirrored silhouette
Cutting for Hair Texture
• Curly/wavy hair shrinkage: Curly and wavy hair contracts significantly when dry; always cut longer than the desired finished length to account for shrinkage
• The curlier the hair, the more shrinkage to anticipate
Key Terms
• Taper / fade
• Undercut
• Asymmetrical cut
• Shrinkage
• Disconnection
> Watch Out For: Curly hair shrinkage is a commonly tested concept. The exam may ask why you leave curly hair longer — the answer is always to account for shrinkage, not to compensate for damage or density.
---
Quick Review Checklist
Use this list to confirm you can confidently answer questions on each topic:
• [ ] Define elevation and identify the result at 0°, 45°, and 90°
• [ ] Explain the difference between a stationary guide and a traveling guide
• [ ] Define overdirection and describe when it is used
• [ ] Identify the correct elevation range for a graduated cut (1°–89°)
• [ ] Describe point cutting, notching, slicing, channel cutting, and razor cutting — and their differences
• [ ] Locate the occipital bone and apex on the head and explain their relevance
• [ ] Describe the four-section parting used in a basic haircut
• [ ] Explain the purpose and use of thinning shears
• [ ] State the correct NY State sanitation requirement for clippers
• [ ] Describe the correct draping procedure (neck strip before cape)
• [ ] Explain proper cutting tension and its effect on the finished cut
• [ ] Define a taper/fade, undercut, and asymmetrical cut
• [ ] Explain why curly hair must be cut longer than the desired finished length
• [ ] State when razor cutting must be performed (on wet hair only)
• [ ] Describe how to safely pass shears to another person
---
Good luck on your NY Cosmetology State Board Exam! Review these concepts, practice your technique, and remember: precision in angles and strict sanitation protocols are the keys to success.