Hair Cutting Techniques – California Cosmetology State Board Exam

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A stationary guide is a section of hair cut to a specific length that does not move; all subsequent sections are brought to it and cut to match.

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A traveling guide moves with the stylist as each new section is cut; a small amount of the previously cut hair is carried into the next section to maintain consistency throughout the haircut.

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Elevation refers to the angle at which the hair is held away from the head before cutting; it determines how much layering and weight removal occurs in the finished style.

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Zero degrees (0°) elevation — the hair is combed straight down with no lifting, so all hair falls to the perimeter and no interior layers are created.

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Over-direction is combing hair away from its natural fall toward a guide; it creates graduation or length increases because sections farther from the guide are cut longer.