Comprehensive Study Guide
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Overview
Chemical services are among the most complex and high-stakes procedures in cosmetology, involving permanent waving, chemical relaxers, and hair color. These services require a thorough understanding of chemistry, proper application techniques, and strict safety protocols. Mastery of this content is essential for both the Florida State Board Exam and safe professional practice.
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Permanent Waving
How It Works
Permanent waving chemically reshapes the hair by first breaking disulfide bonds with a waving solution, then rebuilding them with a neutralizer around a rod to create a new curl pattern. This two-step process permanently alters the hair's internal structure in the cortex layer.
Alkaline (Cold Wave) Permanent
• Active Ingredient: Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
• pH Range: 9.0 – 9.6 (alkaline)
• Best For: Normal to resistant hair
• Heat Required: No — processes at room temperature
• Processing: Generally faster than acid waves
Acid-Balanced Permanent Wave
• Active Ingredient: Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
• pH Range: 6.5 – 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
• Best For: Color-treated, fine, or delicate/damaged hair
• Heat Required: Yes — requires an outside heat source to activate
• Processing: Gentler and slower than alkaline waves
The Neutralizer
• Function: Rebuilds (re-forms) the disulfide bonds broken by the waving solution
• Locks the hair into its new shape around the rod
• Stops the chemical action of the waving solution
• Contains hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate as the oxidizing agent
Curl Development Check
• Unwind a test curl 1½ turns from the rod
• If hair forms a firm "S" wave matching the rod size → processing is complete
• Check multiple rods in different areas of the head
Key Terms – Permanent Waving
• Disulfide bonds – Strong sulfur-to-sulfur bonds in the cortex that give hair its strength and shape
• Reduction – The chemical process of breaking disulfide bonds (waving solution phase)
• Oxidation – The chemical process of rebuilding disulfide bonds (neutralizer phase)
• Over-processing – Result of leaving waving solution on too long; causes mushy, overly porous hair with an overly tight or frizzy curl pattern
• Under-processing – Result of insufficient processing time; curl drops or relaxes prematurely
> ### ⚠️ Watch Out For
> - Confusing which step is reduction (breaking bonds = waving solution) vs. oxidation (rebuilding bonds = neutralizer)
> - Forgetting that acid waves require heat — a frequent exam trick
> - Mixing up ATG (alkaline) with GMTG (acid) and their appropriate hair types
> - Over-processing is caused by time, not just product strength
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Chemical Relaxers
How Relaxers Work
Chemical relaxers permanently break and rearrange disulfide bonds in the cortex to straighten curly or coily hair. They operate at very high pH levels and require careful application and timing to prevent scalp damage and hair breakage.
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) Relaxers
• Active Ingredient: Sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• pH Range: 12 – 14 (extremely alkaline)
• Strength: Strongest chemical relaxer available
• Requires base cream: Yes — applied to scalp before service to prevent chemical burns
• Base vs. No-Base: Base relaxers require scalp protection cream; no-base relaxers contain a built-in scalp protectant
No-Lye Relaxers (Guanidine Hydroxide)
• Active Ingredients: Guanidine carbonate + calcium hydroxide (mixed at time of service)
• Milder than sodium hydroxide relaxers
• Disadvantage: Can cause mineral buildup in the hair, leaving it dry and brittle over time
• Still require scalp protection; still very high pH
The Neutralizing Shampoo
• Stops the chemical action of the relaxer
• Removes residual chemicals from the hair and scalp
• Restores the hair's pH to its natural acidic level (4.5–5.5)
• Applied multiple times to ensure thorough neutralization
Critical Safety Rules
| Rule | Reason |
|------|--------|
| Apply base cream before sodium hydroxide relaxer | Prevents chemical burns to scalp and skin |
| Never overlap relaxer on previously processed hair | Causes breakage at the line of demarcation |
| Never apply to scalp with abrasions or sores | Risk of severe burns, infection, and injury |
| Never mix sodium hydroxide and thio relaxers | Chemical incompatibility causes severe damage and hair loss |
Key Terms – Chemical Relaxers
• Line of demarcation – The extremely fragile area between new growth and previously relaxed hair; must never receive chemical overlap
• Virgin relaxer application – First-time relaxer applied to all hair from scalp to ends
• Relaxer retouch – Relaxer applied only to new growth at the scalp to avoid overlapping onto previously processed hair
• Base cream (protective base) – Cream applied to scalp and skin before a sodium hydroxide relaxer to prevent burns
> ### ⚠️ Watch Out For
> - Never combine sodium hydroxide and thio (ammonium thioglycolate) products — this is one of the most dangerous and testable mistakes
> - The line of demarcation is the most breakage-prone area during retouch services
> - No-lye does not mean no risk — it still requires scalp protection and proper neutralization
> - The neutralizing shampoo is used after a relaxer; the neutralizer (oxidizer) is used after a perm — these are different products and processes
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Hair Color
Color Categories
| Type | Penetration | Developer Needed | Longevity |
|------|------------|-----------------|-----------|
| Temporary | Coats cuticle only | No | Shampoos out |
| Semi-permanent | Partially penetrates cuticle/cortex | No | Fades over 4–6 shampoos |
| Demi-permanent | Deposits into cortex | Low-volume (10-vol) | Fades gradually |
| Permanent | Fully penetrates cortex | Yes (20-vol standard) | Does not wash out |
Hydrogen Peroxide Developer Volumes
• 10-volume (3%) – Deposit only; minimal lift
• 20-volume (6%) – Standard lift and deposit; opens cuticle to activate dye
• 30-volume (9%) – More lift with deposit; used on resistant hair
• 40-volume (12%) – Maximum lift; highest damage potential
The Color Wheel & Color Theory
• Primary Colors: Red, Yellow, Blue — cannot be created by mixing other colors
• Secondary Colors: Created by mixing two primaries
- Red + Yellow = Orange
- Yellow + Blue = Green
- Red + Blue = Violet
• Complementary (Opposite) Colors: Colors across from each other on the wheel; they cancel/neutralize each other
Neutralizing Unwanted Tones
| Unwanted Tone | Use This to Neutralize |
|---------------|----------------------|
| Orange | Blue |
| Red/Orange | Blue-green |
| Yellow | Violet/Purple |
| Brassiness | Toning with the complementary color |
Stages of Decolorization (Lightening)
Understanding these stages is critical for predicting and correcting color results:
1. Black
2. Red/Brown
3. Red
4. Red/Orange
5. Orange
6. Yellow/Orange
7. Yellow
8. Pale Yellow
> Each stage must be passed through in order — you cannot skip stages during the lightening process.
Required Tests
| Test | Purpose | Timing |
|------|---------|--------|
| Patch test (predisposition test) | Checks for allergic reaction to oxidative color | 24–48 hours before service |
| Strand test | Determines processing time and expected color result | Before or during service |
| Porosity test | Assesses hair's ability to absorb moisture/chemicals | Before service |
| Elasticity test | Checks hair's strength and ability to stretch | Before service |
Bleach (Hair Lightener)
• Uses oxidation to dissolve and disperse melanin (natural pigment) in the cortex
• Cannot deposit color — only lifts/removes pigment
• On-scalp vs. off-scalp formulas have different strengths
• Toner is applied after bleaching to achieve the desired final tone
Virgin vs. Retouch Application
• Virgin application: Color applied root to ends on hair that has never been chemically colored
• Retouch application: Color applied only to new growth to avoid overlap, heat build-up, and damage at the line of demarcation
Key Terms – Hair Color
• Melanin – Natural pigment that gives hair its color (eumelanin = dark; pheomelanin = red/yellow)
• Developer (hydrogen peroxide) – Oxidizing agent that activates permanent hair color and opens the cuticle
• Decolorization – The lightening process that removes natural pigment using bleach
• Toner – Applied after lightening to neutralize unwanted tones and achieve the desired shade
• Complementary colors – Colors opposite each other on the color wheel that cancel each other out
> ### ⚠️ Watch Out For
> - The patch test is 24–48 hours before service — not the same day
> - 20-volume is the standard developer for lift AND deposit
> - Blue cancels orange; violet/purple cancels yellow — know both
> - Temporary color has no developer and does not penetrate the cuticle
> - Hair must pass through every lightening stage in order — you cannot jump from black to pale yellow in one step
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Safety & Sanitation
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
• Gloves – Required for all chemical services; protect cosmetologist's hands from chemicals
• Protective apron – Shields clothing and skin from splashes
• Safety glasses – Recommended especially during mixing and application of strong chemicals
Safety Data Sheets (SDS)
• Formerly called MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)
• Provides detailed information on: hazardous ingredients, health hazards, first aid measures, safe handling, and disposal
• Must be accessible to all employees in the workplace at all times
• Contains 16 standardized sections per GHS (Globally Harmonized System)
OSHA & HazCom
• OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) sets federal workplace safety standards
• Hazard Communication Standard (HazCom / Right-to-Know Law): Requires employers to:
- Train staff on hazardous chemicals
- Maintain and provide access to SDS sheets
- Label all chemical containers properly
Chemical Disposal Rules
• Never store leftover mixed (activated) chemical products — they must be discarded after use
• Follow manufacturer's instructions and local regulations for disposal
• Do not pour chemicals down drains without following proper disposal guidelines
• Mixed color, bleach, and relaxer that is activated cannot be saved for future use
Contraindications – When to Postpone a Service
• Scalp abrasions, open sores, or inflammation → Postpone chemical relaxer service
• Positive patch test reaction → Do not perform oxidative color service
• Excessively damaged or compromised hair → Evaluate before any chemical service
Key Terms – Safety & Sanitation
• SDS (Safety Data Sheet) – Document providing hazard and safety information for chemical products
• OSHA – Federal agency that regulates workplace safety and chemical handling standards
• HazCom (Right-to-Know Law) – Requires employers to communicate chemical hazards to employees
• PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) – Protective gear worn to minimize exposure to hazards
• Contraindication – A condition that makes a particular service inadvisable or unsafe
> ### ⚠️ Watch Out For
> - SDS sheets are now called SDS, not MSDS — the exam may use either term
> - Mixed/activated chemicals must be discarded — never stored
> - Always postpone a service if the scalp is compromised; never proceed and document later
> - PPE applies to the cosmetologist, not just the client
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Quick Review Checklist
Use this checklist before your exam to confirm you know these essential points:
• [ ] ATG is the active ingredient in alkaline waves (pH 9.0–9.6); GMTG is in acid waves (pH 6.5–7.0)
• [ ] Acid waves require heat; alkaline waves process at room temperature
• [ ] The neutralizer re-forms disulfide bonds (oxidation phase) in permanent waving
• [ ] Check curl development by unwinding a rod 1½ turns and looking for a firm "S" wave
• [ ] Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH of 12–14 — the strongest relaxer available
• [ ] Always apply base cream before a sodium hydroxide relaxer service
• [ ] Never mix sodium hydroxide and thio products on the same client
• [ ] The line of demarcation is the fragile zone between new growth and previously processed hair
• [ ] The neutralizing shampoo stops relaxer action and restores the hair's natural pH
• [ ] Temporary color coats only the cuticle; permanent color penetrates the cortex
• [ ] 20-volume developer is the standard for lift and deposit with permanent color
• [ ] Blue neutralizes orange; violet/purple neutralizes yellow
• [ ] The patch test must be done 24–48 hours before an oxidative color service
• [ ] Hair lightens through 8 stages in order — you cannot skip stages
• [ ] SDS sheets must be accessible to all employees; they replaced MSDS
• [ ] OSHA HazCom requires employers to train staff and maintain SDS on hazardous chemicals
• [ ] Postpone any chemical service if the scalp shows abrasions, sores, or inflammation
• [ ] Mixed/activated chemical products must be discarded — never stored for future use
• [ ] Wear gloves for all chemical services; apron and safety glasses are also recommended
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Good luck on your Florida Cosmetology State Board Exam! Focus on understanding the chemistry behind each service and the safety rules — these are consistently the highest-tested areas in the chemical services section.